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I was going to post a rant on basic pavilion courtesy at events, as I have been hearing horror stories from nice people about strangers helping themselves to hospitality without as much as an "if you please", but I'm in too good a mood today.

(That rant will come later. The problem is not going away, people.)

But today, I am sanguine. I just finished updating a page or two on my web site - particularly this one. Check it out - especially, you, Kass. And let me know if I overstepped. :)

I have also added a new gallery, and that one will be ongoing. In a few weeks, I'll be able to add a couple more pictures to it, as the pink petticoat is continuing apace, and the periwinkle one will be ready for Pennsic (it will, it will - and nothing is going to stand in my way, dammit).

Comments

( 59 brains — Leave a chunk of brain! )
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kass_rants
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:06 pm (UTC)
Oh my God!!!! You like me! You really like me!!!

Seriously. Thank you. That's just so totally awesome of you!

I'd promise you my first born but we all know how unlikely that is. ;)
alphafemale1
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:15 pm (UTC)
(so promise her someone else's firstborn...you have apprentices...)
(no subject) - kass_rants - Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:16 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - attack_laurel - Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:16 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - kass_rants - Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:17 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - attack_laurel - Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:32 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - kass_rants - Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:38 pm (UTC) - Expand
reasdream
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:19 pm (UTC)
Query about sewing tips on your lacing (the Wow! Bows! picture) - do you whip stitch? With waxed thread? (tried that once but it was a bit of a flop - possibly my stitches were too big?)
attack_laurel
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:31 pm (UTC)
I use a buttonhole stitch that is anchored on the tape at the beginning and the end of the stitching. I start about 1" in from the end, buttonhole to the end, then overcast the tip to prevent fraying, wrap aroun again, and tie off.

I use waxed linen thread - you have to pull each stitch tight, and make them so close together that very little of the tape is showing. Some will show (especially when you start using the laces), but as long as it's tight, it will remain stiff enough to lace. :)

Did that help?
(no subject) - reasdream - Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:57 pm (UTC) - Expand
judithsewstoo
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:33 pm (UTC)
Drat you for giving me ideas for fleshing out my 7th century Pictish persona! ;)

Not that I can, as yet, fully document styles much less actual garments worn during that time, but I am researching! ;) :)

Great article.
attack_laurel
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:37 pm (UTC)
Wow - you got that from an Elizabethan article? I am good. (kidding) 8)

It's all about the little details.
(no subject) - judithsewstoo - Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:43 pm (UTC) - Expand
gwacie
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:42 pm (UTC)
Very nice, well worded, logically organized and helpful with good photo examples. You rock, but you knew that already ;)
thornbury
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:46 pm (UTC)
That's got to be your best icon yet.
attack_laurel
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:01 pm (UTC)
Bob takes very good pictures of me.
(no subject) - kass_rants - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:06 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - attack_laurel - Jul. 2nd, 2008 03:33 pm (UTC) - Expand
(Deleted comment)
attack_laurel
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:04 pm (UTC)
Thanks. :) I've discovered over the years that people respond better to photographs - I think it's part of the modern mindset. The old pictures and paintings are hard for people to "see" in the same way that they "see" photographs as representative of clothing.

...Which is a whole essay in and of itself. :)
(no subject) - cathgrace - Jul. 2nd, 2008 04:51 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - albreda - Jul. 2nd, 2008 05:04 pm (UTC) - Expand
dragonazure
Jul. 2nd, 2008 01:54 pm (UTC)
Ah, the dread hospitality vs. rudely taking advantage debate.... You will undoubtedly receive much sympathetic rantage when you are in a mood to post that one.
attack_laurel
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:07 pm (UTC)
Considering so many people are experiencing it, I though I might talk about polite ways to avoid being taken advantage of. People hate making a scene, and mooches know that. Others are so oblivious to their impact on the people around them that they really honestly don't understand why just sitting down in someone's chair and not budging is rude.

And both sets of people get very bent out of shape when called on it - hence the "making a scene" avoidance - it's not the nice person who is being taken advantage of that's making the scene, it's the rude person, who somehow feels that being asked to stop ruining everyone else's experience is rude.

*eye*roll* the logic of these people, it kills me.
(no subject) - zihuatanejo - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:29 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - elizabethnmafia - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:52 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - valkyr8 - Jul. 2nd, 2008 05:21 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - aliskye - Jul. 2nd, 2008 06:17 pm (UTC) - Expand
hugh_mannity
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:01 pm (UTC)
Fabulous. Now if only someone would do the same sort of in-depth work for men's clothing. why you lookin' at me like that?</small>

It's very nicely written, and makes me want to run out of the office and start sewing (after buying a few more of Kass's patterns of course!)
kass_rants
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:07 pm (UTC)
Heh heh heh heh heh. Our evil plan is working. It's working!!! ;)
(no subject) - attack_laurel - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:07 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - kass_rants - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:11 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - hugh_mannity - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:12 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - kass_rants - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:17 pm (UTC) - Expand
chiarafrancesca
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:02 pm (UTC)
about hats :)
OOOO!!! Nice!

I have a question about hats. The colors of them actually. Did hats match the color of the outfit every time? If not, what was the color logic?

I ask because I have one of those beautiful hats in a power blue and am debating whether or not to make a matching dress from top to bottom or not.

Thanks!! :)
Chiara
attack_laurel
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:13 pm (UTC)
Re: about hats :)
No, they didn't always - there is no real colour logic to clothing in the 16th/17th century - if they liked the look of things together, they did it. Most hats end up being black because it's fashionable, and they're made of felt, which takes a black dye nicely (and hold on to it). However, hats were made of fur felt (beaver and such), leather, silk, linen canvas, knit - whatever worked.

If you want to go with an entirely powder blue outfit, you wouldn't neccessarily be doing anything wrong. :) There's a woman in the Fete at Bermondsey painting (it's available on Google images) who is wearing a pink gown with a pink hat - but the skirt is split with a contrasting colour underneath, and her sleeves are also another colour - that might be an attractive way to do it.

You can also use the blue as an accent colour - in the guarding (trim bands) on a petticoat, or make the doublet one colour, and the sleeves powder blue. It's a bit of a cliche, but black with light blue accents would also look really striking.
Re: about hats :) - chiarafrancesca - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:37 pm (UTC) - Expand
Re: about hats :) - kass_rants - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:38 pm (UTC) - Expand
Re: about hats :) - chiarafrancesca - Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:44 pm (UTC) - Expand
molly_world
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:37 pm (UTC)
I so think you need a "I'm in your pavillion...eatin' your fud" icon...c'mon...you know we all want one...
kass_rants
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:38 pm (UTC)
*dies*
(no subject) - attack_laurel - Jul. 2nd, 2008 03:27 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - hrldndva - Jul. 2nd, 2008 03:48 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - attack_laurel - Jul. 2nd, 2008 04:00 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - florentinescot - Jul. 2nd, 2008 06:11 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - hrldndva - Jul. 2nd, 2008 06:17 pm (UTC) - Expand
broderesse
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:44 pm (UTC)
Thanks so much for posting the article! It is the little details that really make the difference in how the clothes look. And it's nice to see the 'layers' in getting dressed and how it's okay to mix and match petticoats and doublets. I've learn so much from your writings!
devikat
Jul. 2nd, 2008 02:55 pm (UTC)
Ooo - I was just going to ask if those were lacing points I noticed at the waist on your new, fabulous icon.

Soo... (as my brain is running around in circles) if a woman is wearing more than one petticoat, is she lacing them all to the bodies? (Using one point to lace through the bodies, petticoat one, petticoat two and then tie.) Or might there be one petticoat tied to the bodies, and one to the doublet? (Which, I suppose wouldn't work if you weren't wearing a doublet...)

That, of course, supposes that all petticoats were laced to something though... if the under petticoat was laced to the bodice, but the over petticoat sat on top and was just laced/hooked/whatever closed, and was seperate...

And what about...

Sorry! *grin* letting my brain run away with my fingers again and pondering as I'm typing. *runs away to go grab books and play with fabric and see what would happen* Thank God I have today off...
attack_laurel
Jul. 2nd, 2008 03:31 pm (UTC)
Well, I'm working on that particular subject.

It is possible that both petticoats could be laced in - waistbands are not that bulky. One could simply be tied to itself - and there's the issue that pointing doesn't seem to become a big thing for women until the end of the 16th c. The tudor outfits are one piece, but sometimes there's a petticoat visible underneath - it might simply be tied.

Some may be pointed, some not. As we all know, a skirt will sit at the waist just fine without being laced into the top - and if the issue is gappage, the petticoat underneath doesn't matter, since the top one is pointed.

The one thing that seems more probable is that ties of some sort rather than hooks were used.
valkyr8
Jul. 2nd, 2008 03:38 pm (UTC)
Love the article! Great pictures!
aliskye
Jul. 2nd, 2008 06:03 pm (UTC)
Wow! Great article and *exactly* what I wanted/needed/am inspired by! :)

(I'm on the first step with a linen shift underway :)
florentinescot
Jul. 2nd, 2008 06:14 pm (UTC)
couple of questions (but first I'll add my *thanks* for such a spiffy article!)

-- what weight of linen do you recommend for a shift?

-- what's your very favorite boning material? Steel, ridgeline, hemp, or cable-ties? (or maybe the pros/cons of each one ...)

Going to suck it into WP now so I can print me a copy. :-)
attack_laurel
Jul. 7th, 2008 10:14 am (UTC)
1. I use several weights, depending on what I want - the more upper-class the shift, the finer the linen. If I'm expecting to be seen in my skivvies, I try for a little more opacity, and my working shift for J'Town is a little tougher, to withstand harder working conditions.

2. My favourite boning material is 1/8" or 1/4" round reed, but I have also used the others. Of the others, I lean towards cable ties, doubled in the channel - they have the bend and flexibility of whalebone (giving the slightly curved front in the icon with this reply). Rigilene is my least favourite - it's expensive, deteriorates easily, and doesn't provide anything any cheaper than cable ties. BTW, I use 75-80 cable ties per corset. Cable ties are also not suitable for Victorian corsets, since they are not strong enough to handle the more severe lacing - you need steel for that.

:)
(no subject) - florentinescot - Jul. 7th, 2008 02:20 pm (UTC) - Expand
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