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There had better be more twist...

We choose to embroider and do the other things in this decade, not because they are easy, but because they look abso-frickin'-lutely cool.*

Sadly, my calculations indicate a distinct possibility that my new jacket will not be finished in this decade.  Big surprise there, I know.

But I have finished outlining the sleeve pieces, and started on the first body piece.  As I started that, I also took some time to work on the sleeve motifs.  This time, I worked on the leaves and the carnation, so I have a new bit to show you.  Yay!  Right?  Right??


I got a floor stand, so I'm not wrestling constantly with the scroll frame.  It's actually a portable frame, so I can, if I choose, take the frame with me when I'm travelling, which will be nice when I get to the GST and gilt work, as I will no longer be able to work on a hoop frame.  Since I like using all my down time on projects, this will speed the finish date, as I'll be able to keep working on the project wherever I am.

But, the new bits!

I worked on the leaves first, to fill out the outlined bits between the major motifs, just to get an idea of what it will look like.  I'm not doing a completely different fill for each leaf - that would be madness, madness I tells ya! - but I am using a variety of fills just to keep myself amused.  I'm even leaving a few of the leaves with just simple veins (I saw this on the cushion I'm basing it on), to give a definite contrast between the lightest and darkest fills. 

I then filled the petals of the carnation with a stitch that I found appealing.  It's echoed in the leaves around it, which I like.


As you can see, I like little "X" fills.  A lot.  One of the things I keep in mind as I'm working is achieving a certain sense of depth, so I'm varying the light/dark fills on leaves that are close or overlapping.  I think it makes it more attractive.  I also chose a fairly dark fill for the carnation petals, since the centers of the petals will be filled with the Special Tambour gilt.  This helps to give it a nice contrast, and sets up the fill as a middle gradation between the GST and the gilt.

Next, I filled the base of the carnation and some of the smaller leaves (plus a couple more rose hips) with the GST:

Here's a close-up of the carnation base - you can see I'm getting a bit better with the detached buttonhole:

I like to keep it smooth.  Smooth, baby, that's me.  Yeah.  I'm using the GST on the smallest of the leaf bits (as well as sections of larger leaves) because it's prettier than one or two stitches of fill, and adds to the richness of the overall embroidery.

Then, for a bit of variety, I filled in the centers of a couple of leaves with ceylon stitch in the Tambour, one of which is shown below:

Continuing with the Tambour, I filled in the carnation with detached buttonhole:

You can also see the other ceylon stitch leaf center in this picture.

I finished off this segment of working on the sleeve with some berries in the Tambour.  Because the berries are small, I'm doing the round stitch with only three lines, rather than five, and it's looking good.  Here's a picture to give you the overall effect of the sleeve so far:

I am very happy with it.  I'll be sick of it by the time it's done, but I'm saving the spangles untill the very end (so you won't get to see them until I'm done), to help me get excited about the sparklies all over again.  Glitter!  I love glitter.

Onward and upward.  Next time, I'll be working on the rose.  There are two more motifs plus the in-between leaves after that (including the big leaf you can see at the bottom of the last photo), and then it will simply be me showing pictures of what the bits look like as they're filled in completely. 

Of course, by the time I get through all the motifs, I'll probably be ready to start on the fill stitching, so there'll be that.  Besides, I don't really need an excuse to show pictures, right?  Right???


*Apologies, JFK's speechwriters, blah, blah, blah.


( 53 brains — Leave a chunk of brain! )
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(Deleted comment)
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:42 pm (UTC)
Thank you!
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:16 pm (UTC)
That is 100% badassed!
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:42 pm (UTC)
Thank you!
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:28 pm (UTC)
Wishing you an army of tailor mice, and that Simpkins' heart is sufficiently touched that he reveals the hiding place of that last skein of twist. So you will have just enough twist! xoxoxo

I am so utterly blown away by this project that I don't have anything more intelligent to say ;)
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:42 pm (UTC)
Hee, I knew you'd get the reference!

I'm having a lot of fun with it. :)
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:35 pm (UTC)
That is so cool it makes your average glacier look tropical!
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:43 pm (UTC)
(Deleted comment)
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:40 pm (UTC)
Some people call it cobweb or spiderweb stitch - it's basically making a radius of stitches in a circle, and then weaving the thread on the surface around the stitches in an over-under pattern (you need an odd number of initial stitches to do this) until a circle of the size you want is achieved.

The Tabmbour refers to the thread, which is called "Tambour Special Gilt", and can be used for tambour or lace-making, as well as stitching. I have done the vines in reverse chain, and most of the gilt and Gilt Silk Twist (GST) is done in detached buttonhole stitch.

I know how to do tambour stitch, but it's not common on English embroideries of this period. :)
(no subject) - virginiadear - Oct. 1st, 2009 03:51 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - attack_laurel - Oct. 1st, 2009 03:54 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - virginiadear - Oct. 1st, 2009 04:12 pm (UTC) - Expand
(Deleted comment)
(Deleted comment)
(Deleted comment)
Re: Hijacking a thread??? Very sorry Laura... - (Anonymous) - Oct. 1st, 2009 05:41 pm (UTC) - Expand
(no subject) - virginiadear - Oct. 1st, 2009 05:49 pm (UTC) - Expand
(Deleted comment)
(no subject) - virginiadear - Oct. 1st, 2009 06:03 pm (UTC) - Expand
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:37 pm (UTC)
Maybe you could do a stitching get together like they did for the Plymouth Jacket, but I have a feeling you are having too much fun doing this jacket on your own. ;-)

It really is beautiful. It seems many on my friends lists are either currently doing jackets or have recently done jackets. I wish I had an excuse to do one!
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:41 pm (UTC)
Do you need an excuse? *evil grin*
(no subject) - my_stitching - Oct. 1st, 2009 03:58 pm (UTC) - Expand
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:38 pm (UTC)
You are a madwoman. And I love you – I know, I know, it’s sort of stalkerish since we’ve never meet….  Honestly though, the jacket is an inspiration. Looking at your progress, I noticed that the detached buttonhole stitch looks a lot like the needlelace stitch used to finish the tops of these tassels . I am going to have to play with how that stitch is done, since I am looking for a nice finish on a set of ties for a friends early 17th C. ECW shirt.
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:45 pm (UTC)
Yup, it's pretty much the same thing - it basically creates fabric. :)

Working it over the tassel is easier if you start with a small bead - anchor the thread to the bead, then wrap the top, so you have a line of thread to start the stitching on. You can either stretch the stitches as you go down the bead (that produces a net-like effect), or add stitches to each go-round, and cover the base bead entirely.

ETA: To do it without a bead (which I find isn't as attractive, I must admit) like in the photo, start the stitching by knotting the end of the tie, then working the first line of stitches through the tie at the top of the knot (to anchor it). Then, just work down over the knot without stitching into it.

Edited at 2009-10-01 03:48 pm (UTC)
(no subject) - hsifeng - Oct. 1st, 2009 03:56 pm (UTC) - Expand
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:41 pm (UTC)
I LOVE seeing these pictures- I'm so going to have to use some of those fill stitches for my second coif! :)
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:50 pm (UTC)
definitely - some of them are dead simple, and you can play with them to create different effects - there's literally no fill that doesn't seem to turn up somewhere in period. :)
(no subject) - _medb_ - Oct. 1st, 2009 04:06 pm (UTC) - Expand
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:43 pm (UTC)
Just amazing! Words fail me.
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:49 pm (UTC)
Thank you! :) I happily absorb compliments like a flower does sunlight.
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:45 pm (UTC)
Thank you for the update and pictures! I love getting to peek at your beautiful work as it progresses.
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:50 pm (UTC)
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:46 pm (UTC)
Awesome, and helps to understand why folks did the coifs and nightcaps instead of a jacket. More doable for an at-home project.

But to heck with mice, I want elves to come clean house, run my errands, heck even go to work for me. Then I could stay home and stitch, stitch, stitch :)!!!!
Oct. 1st, 2009 03:52 pm (UTC)
Oh, this would definitely be done by a professional house. :) Any woman would be mad to try and do this all by herself when there's people to do it for her!

(Anyone too poor to pay for it to be done is too poor to be wearing this kind of thing.8) )
(no subject) - grnvixen - Oct. 1st, 2009 08:11 pm (UTC) - Expand
Oct. 1st, 2009 04:00 pm (UTC)
I just wanted to say I've been an admirer of your work for a while now and this is truly inspiring and beautiful work. I look forward to seeing the progress.
Oct. 1st, 2009 04:02 pm (UTC)
Absolutely jaw-droppingly gorgeous.
Oct. 1st, 2009 04:07 pm (UTC)
damn . . . I mean Hot Damn!
Oct. 1st, 2009 04:18 pm (UTC)
I have been waiting with baited breath (and muffled oar) for an update on this project - thank you!! As always, I am agog at your awesomeness.
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