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Stash Challenge #4

I just finished my latest addition to my Stash list - a falling band for a friend.

It's made in the same 2oz linen that I made my collar and cuffs, and it's worked in drawn work and pulled work.


The first picture is, of course, the whole thing.  The second shows the hem in a little more detail - the threads in the edge were first two lines of drawn work, then the threads between the two sections were partially pulled together.  Finally, the threads in the center were cut and pulled out.  This left a soft line in the center that I really like.

Detail of the work:

Cutting and pulling the center threads after sewing makes the corners look  a little prettier:

And stitching down the pleats makes the band lie better against  the neck. 


This shows the neckband the main part is sewn into - to ensure the "fall" of the band looks its best, the band is sewn in to the neck part with a line of stitches on each side.  This is a little more work, but worth it for the end look.  Both sides were top stitched (basically, I pinned it all together right sides out, and stitched along one side and back the other), because it makes everything lie flatter.  The stitch I used to was a very small whip stitch.

I sewed it together using Londonderry Linen thread size 100/3.  I beeswaxed the thread quite heavily to make it go through the linen smoothly, because the very loose weave linen pulls out of shape very easily.  I had to be careful pinning it, and I used a very sharp needle for sewing, because the weave would catch on the pins and the needle and pull out.

While the linen looks very nice and delicate, it is a bit fragile (though I really enjoyed working with it, and I love the look), and I would only use it for this kind of accessory, and never for actual garments like shirts or shifts.

And finally, these are the best shots I could get of the size of my stitching on the pleats:


It went quite fast, but working the threads takes a while.  I can sew a plain linen falling band in an evening - this took me a week and a half, with an average of about 2 hours per night.

I plan to play with this style of stitching a lot more - the needlework on this one is appropriate to the class level of the person I making it for, but I want to play with much more complicated designs. 

So, there you go.  Have a good weekend, everyone!



( 26 brains — Leave a chunk of brain! )
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:22 am (UTC)
That is STUNNING. I love drawn and pulled work and fine linen.
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:23 am (UTC)
Thank you!

I'm sorry, I forgot to lj cut all those pictures - it's fixed now.

Jan. 31st, 2009 03:24 am (UTC)
cut or not -- lovely!
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:27 am (UTC)
Things like this make me twitch hard to sit down and teach myself (or try anyway) how to do drawn work. I just really doubt that at this point in time I have either the patience, or my kids have enough survival instincts to leave it alone. =(

Anyway, that's beautiful!
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:31 am (UTC)
It is so nice, you are a wonderful friend! (for more reasons then this, but still)
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:38 am (UTC)
Wow. I would be afraid to even wear something that delicate-looking. But it's gorgeous!
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:49 am (UTC)
okay this might be a dumb question but I'm trying to get my brain around how drawn work works. After staring at your pictures, is it correct that you only pulled threads going the length of the edge and then the spaces that are perpendicular are caused by how the weft threads are drawn together? well I guess I shouldn't say weft since I'm not sure if it was cut on the straight or cross but you get what I'm asking? Sorry if this is rambly
Jan. 31st, 2009 04:06 am (UTC)
Yup, that's basically how it goes. To do drawn work like this, your edges have to be straight on to the weave, so I pull the threads on the edges for a cutting line before I even start. Then I measure in how far I want to start the sewing line, and pull out 3-4 threads along that line. If I'm going to turn a corner, like on the collar (or a napkin), I measure the same length in, and pull the same number of threads in that direction. This leaves me with a line of threads, which I sew along, pulling 3-4 threads together as I go.
Jan. 31st, 2009 05:47 am (UTC)
Curse my visual learning! I think I need a you tube video to be able to understand.
Jan. 31st, 2009 05:56 am (UTC)
If you happen to find such a thing, please share!
Jan. 31st, 2009 08:38 am (UTC)
Have a look at this link

It teaches the basisc of Drawn Threadwork.

Also, look at these pictures on my LJ gallery here and the main page here - it should give you an idea of how I prepped up the drawn threadwork partlet of mine.
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:55 pm (UTC)
*Wow!* Thank you!
Jan. 31st, 2009 04:15 pm (UTC)
a ha! I think the pieces are finally starting to click in my brain. Thanks! I learn so much from your blog
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:56 am (UTC)
oooh, you could ALMOST tempt me to go later than 1300 if I could wear lovelies like that!
Jan. 31st, 2009 04:22 am (UTC)
That's wonderful. I'm working on a drawn-thread sleeve border on my next shirt. I managed to snag some really sheer linen batiste that isn't very fragile, so I'm going to have a really sheer shirt. I also want to make a camisa from it, but that will have a lot of drawn and pulled thread and a needlelace edging, if I can manage it, so it's not getting started yet.
Jan. 31st, 2009 08:35 am (UTC)
Absolutely gorgeous!! Ay pictures with it being worn?? ;-)
Jan. 31st, 2009 12:50 pm (UTC)
The person hasn't received it yet (and it's a bit big for me), but I'll try and take pictures of him in it. :)
Jan. 31st, 2009 11:04 am (UTC)
Ooohhhh! That is so beautiful! I admire your ability to do such fine handwork. Just exquisite!
Jan. 31st, 2009 03:26 pm (UTC)
Ooooooooooooh! I wants! *snort* I want to take this - hell, any - class from you. *pout* It'll pro'lly have to wait untill I can get out east for grad school...
Jan. 31st, 2009 04:49 pm (UTC)
Very pretty! It makes me want to try some drawnwork.
Jan. 31st, 2009 08:00 pm (UTC)
What type of embroidery frame do you use?
Feb. 2nd, 2009 11:10 am (UTC)
I don't use any kind of embroidery fram for doing this kind of work - the frame distorts the tension, and it ruins the drawn work. I use my fingers to keep the right tension on the threads as I'm working them. :)
Feb. 1st, 2009 02:19 am (UTC)
Beautiful! I love drawnwork - it always looks so elegant.
Feb. 1st, 2009 02:30 am (UTC)
Looks great!
Feb. 2nd, 2009 11:10 am (UTC)
Of course, no I need to make a plain one from tougher fabric for your everyday use... ;)
Feb. 1st, 2009 04:51 pm (UTC)
That is all I can manage to say at the moment...
( 26 brains — Leave a chunk of brain! )

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