I just finished my latest addition to my Stash list - a falling band for a friend.
It's made in the same 2oz linen that I made my collar and cuffs, and it's worked in drawn work and pulled work.
The first picture is, of course, the whole thing. The second shows the hem in a little more detail - the threads in the edge were first two lines of drawn work, then the threads between the two sections were partially pulled together. Finally, the threads in the center were cut and pulled out. This left a soft line in the center that I really like.
Detail of the work:
Cutting and pulling the center threads after sewing makes the corners look a little prettier:
And stitching down the pleats makes the band lie better against the neck.
This shows the neckband the main part is sewn into - to ensure the "fall" of the band looks its best, the band is sewn in to the neck part with a line of stitches on each side. This is a little more work, but worth it for the end look. Both sides were top stitched (basically, I pinned it all together right sides out, and stitched along one side and back the other), because it makes everything lie flatter. The stitch I used to was a very small whip stitch.
I sewed it together using Londonderry Linen thread size 100/3. I beeswaxed the thread quite heavily to make it go through the linen smoothly, because the very loose weave linen pulls out of shape very easily. I had to be careful pinning it, and I used a very sharp needle for sewing, because the weave would catch on the pins and the needle and pull out.
While the linen looks very nice and delicate, it is a bit fragile (though I really enjoyed working with it, and I love the look), and I would only use it for this kind of accessory, and never for actual garments like shirts or shifts.
And finally, these are the best shots I could get of the size of my stitching on the pleats:
It went quite fast, but working the threads takes a while. I can sew a plain linen falling band in an evening - this took me a week and a half, with an average of about 2 hours per night.
I plan to play with this style of stitching a lot more - the needlework on this one is appropriate to the class level of the person I making it for, but I want to play with much more complicated designs.
So, there you go. Have a good weekend, everyone!