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Gaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!! No time! eleventy!

It has been a ridiculously intense month; I'm finished on the shirt (post on that soon), and on to the ruffs that are due June 15th or so.

Here's the link to our Gardiner's weblog that has pictures of the suits being made by Eleanor and Olivia, pictures of the embroidered shirt being made by Esther, and rather boring pictures of me doing endless drawn-work.  Yes, I designed the embroidery for the cuffs and collar of the embroidered shirt; it is an amalgamation of several bands of embroidery from the period.  Yes, you can copy it if you want.  :)

Swear, I *swear* there will be a whole post on the shirt soon.  Meanwhile, here's a pic of the pleating:

pleated neck ruffle, Elizabethan
This is for the collar of the gathered shirt.  The pleats are 1/4" apart, and would be starched and set like a ruff.  It's 4.5 yards of handkerchief weight linen, cut in strips and butted together, with the drawn-work stitching carried over each of the butted seams (as in, step 1: Pull threads, step 2: Sew seams together, step 3: Do drawn-work stitching along the entire sewn-together length).

More tomorrow. 

Comments

( 3 brains — Leave a chunk of brain! )
luciab
May. 16th, 2013 08:43 pm (UTC)
Okay, I'm gonna sound like I'm really ignorant here, because I am. Were these things that the upper class wore, or could the middle class afford them, too? Because clearly they were very labor intensive, and it sounds to me like they would be very dear. Or was there even a middle class? Surely so, to some degree, at least-- shopkeepers families, etc. (Now you see why I say I was never good at history, I just like to dress up funny. Although admittedly, this is not the sort of thing that would be covered in a history class, anyway.)
attack_laurel
May. 17th, 2013 02:35 pm (UTC)
These clothes in particular are being made as the less-nice clothes of a member of the aristocracy who is going to a new world "colony" on a business trip. :)

That being said, linen-work, especially in ruffs and shirts, was being done by women, so considerably lower in cost than the silks and gold thread that goes into tailored clothes (which would be made by men). The thing to remember is that materials are expensive, even the best linens, and labour is not. The time spent is less important than the materials used. Yes, only the richer people wore ruffs with lace and fancy clothes, but in London, linen ruffs with little or no embroidery or lace were worn by anyone who could get the money together to pay for the linen.

Hence this shirt being only a second or third (or tenth) best piece of clothing for Lord de laWarre. Does that make sense?
luciab
May. 17th, 2013 05:35 pm (UTC)
Absolutely! Thank you.
( 3 brains — Leave a chunk of brain! )

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